Who You Width?

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For the longest time I thought that my perfect tie width was 3.25″. I have jackets with 2.75″ lapels from the boom years and 3.5″ from the 90s. A 3.25″ ties seemed to work pretty well with all of them, but I saw a picture of myself this week and began to rethink it all.

Picking out the the right tie width for yourself is not rocket science. Like almost anything in clothing it is all about scale.There are only a few things that you need to consider which are your body’s dimensions, the size of your lapel, and size of your collar, but its easy to forget that it is not all math. I myself had lost sight of this.

Here are the pics that I referenced above. The picture directly below is of me in a 3.25″ tie. It looks a little too wide. The picture below it is of me in a 3″ tie. In the past I would have said that 3″ is just a little to skinny, but looking at the two pictures I would say that 3″ tie looks a little better. Others will of course disagree. That is fine.

The moral of this story is that style cannot be achieved purely by following equations. There is a little bit of art to it and a lot of personal preference. Another important thing to keep in mind is that your opinion will change. That is okay too. Growth is good. Just remember not to throw out all those ties you didn’t think worked at the moment!
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Casual Tartan from Lands’ End

Tartan Casual Shirts

With fall fast approaching I grabbed a few of Lands’ Ends’ Sail Rigger Oxford shirts in Tartan (see here).

I have heard some good things about LE’s Sail Rigger shirts. The good being that they are must-iron and that material feels substantial. On the downside, I have heard that they can fit a little boxy. I have not worn mine yet so I can’t speak to the pros and cons quite yet, but I did buy one traditional fit and one tailored fit (in order to get the patter that I wanted). More to come.
Dress Stewart OCBD
While I have not worn these shirts yet at first glance they appear to a good value. The Tartans are great, finding Tartan OCBDs is rare, and the sales price was fantastic as I got both shirts for under $40. The prices have changed since I purchaed, but the Dress & Black Stewart shirts can still be had for $19.99 (see here) which is a fantastic price. The others are retailing for $49.50, but there is currently a 25% off sale and I am sure that a 40% off event is just around the corner.
Green Tartan OCBD

I am not sure that I mentioned it above, but these are casual shirts. They are alpha-sized (S,M,L) and there is not much collar to roll. I will stick my neck and say that I actually prefer smaller collars on my casual shirts which is a blog post in itself. I see these shirts getting a lot of wear this autumn from casual Friday’s to Sunday hikes and everything in between.

More Chore

Ivy Chore Jacket

Not only did I post about J.Crew’s chore blazer (Blazer Chores), but I also picked up one for myself. The results are in, and I like it!

Why did I like about it? At the most basic level It gave me the feeling that I was wearing a sport coat, but it dressed it down in a way that made it more acceptable to the crowd that does not like that type of thing. It also has a cool factor as chore jackets are definitely in at the moment. For us ivy guys it has great shoulders, a 3/2-ish roll, and patch pockets galore. Basically it is a more accessible Keydge (The Weejun on the Keydge) albeit a bit more casual than even a Keydge.
Chore Blazer without tie
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Chore Blazer with Tie

IMG_0691So what is there not to like it about this blazer? In my opinion it does not look good buttoned. I don’t think it is just the cotton construction, but something about it reminds me of a lab coat when buttoned (see the pic  directly above for reference). I wore it unbuttoned. It will also be tough to dress up outside of chinos and should be considered business casual at best. It does working cuffs which presents a problem for those that need them shortened. In my case the sleeves need to be shortened so much that it should not present a problem.

I wanted to get you all some feedback while they are still available. I almost forgot. I purchased a 38R. It fits like 38S…or maybe a 37S

Hits of the Summer

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Summer is on its way out. It will be sad when we have to say goodbye to seersucker and shorts, but exciting to say hello to corduroy and tweed. In anticipation of the upcoming season I thought that I would take a moment to reflect on my favorite items from this summer.

Sperry Camp Mocs

1. Sperry Mocs (see original post)- Far and away these were the best purchase of the summer. I wore them 99% of the time. The fit was perfect. They are extremely comfortable. The only downsides are that the shape could be improved and the branding on the mid-sole could be removed. All in all an awesome moc.
White Sweatshirt in Summer

2. White Sweatshirt – My first white sweatshirt was far too heavy for the coolest summer evenings. My second attempt was a cobble-cloth-ish sweatshirt from Brooks Brothers Red Fleece line. It was the perfect weight and the cobble-cloth like finish differentiated from the typical sweatshirt. While my Sperry Mocs were my favorite item of the summer this sweatshirt was the people’s favorite. I cannot recall a time that I wore it and did not receive a compliment.
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3. Lightweight Green Chinos – Last, but most certainly not least are a pair of lightweight chinos in oxford cloth from J.Crew (770 fit). These green trousers have already received some attention in my “On the Green” post, but they deserved another round of applause. It is not that often that my trad clothes are on-trend, but these pants helped to get me there and for that I am grateful.

Well there you have it. These three items were my most worn and most liked of the summer. What was your best purchase of the summer, this summer or any summer?

 

Blazer Chores

Workwear Blazer

If my Modern Trad post (see here) inspired any of you to go out and start looking for a chore blazer I have some good news for you. J.Crew’s Wallace & Barnes line recently released a nice looking chore blazer with 3-button closure and triple patch pockets. The kicker is that they are offered in suit sizing all for $150 (see here).
Chore Blazer IvyI don’t know too much more about the blazers other than what I stated above. I also know nothing about J.Crew’s suit sizing. For instance, these jackets look like they are cut short. I wonder how much shorter they are than a standard jacket? Outside of the typical fit questions this blazer seems like a good way to test out if chore blazers and unstructured blazers such as a Vetra or Keydge are a good fit for you on the cheap.

I will close out this post with an excerpt from my previous post on chore blazers,

“If you are a young guy that wants to start a sport coat, but aren’t quite ready to go full on blue blazer and repp tie this could be a great place to start. At the same time if you are an old school die hard trad you may want to think about adding one of these to your closet and break it out on casual Friday, the weekend, or even on vacation. If you don’t fall into either of those categories like myself you may just want one and that’s okay too.”