Brooks Brothers Own Make

I had been working on a post where I discussed my unhappiness with Brooks Brothers current sack suit offerings, but then things changed. Actually, I had the whole post done and ready to go, but I took a look at Brooks Brothers website and saw that they had recently released their “Own Make” collection. I put the old post away and began to reevaluate my feelings about the current state of Brooks Brothers.
BB Own Make Logo                                                                             Image from The Trad

Own Make, as stated on their website is not a new collection, but a rather a reintroduction. Own Make was once used by Brooks Brothers to identify the clothing had been made in Brooks Brothers own work rooms. Check out this post  on Own Make by The Trad.

Brooks Brothers describes the current Own Make as,
“A celebration of Brooks Brothers commitment to domestic manufacturing and our dedication to soft shoulder tailoring that has defined American sportswear for decades…”

The current collection consists of 3 suits, 3 jackets, and a few ties. The new Own Make is also inspired by the style of the 60s. Luckily for us that means all of the suits and sports jackets are 3/2 roll sack jackets, which is very refreshing. All of the items are made in the USA which is accompanied by a higher price tag. The sports coats range from $895-1395, the suits $1298, and ties $125. A bit pricy, but quality clothes always are.

Own Make 101 Hopsack SuitOwn Make 101 Hopsack Suit $1298

Own Make 101 Wide Chalk Stripe Flannel SuitOwn Make 101 Wide Chalk Stripe Flannel Suit $1298

Own Make 101 Chalkstripe Hopsack SuitOwn Make 101 Chalk Stripe Hopsack Suit  $1298

It is hard to judge the shape of the jackets from the pictures on the website. The models appear to be wearing jackets that are at least one size too small, but I do know that the jackets are by Southwick which gives me confidence that they will have natural shoulders.  I do wonder if the jackets are closer to the Southwick Cambridge fit or the Brooks Brothers Cambridge fit? I don’t think that the Brooks Brothers Cambridge was made by Southwick and I have a Southwick Cambridge jacket almost identical to the tweed from the Own Make’collection (see here). Based on this I would imagine that the jacket is not quite as trim as the Brooks Brothers Cambridge, but that is just a guess.
Own Make Donegal 101 Sport Coat                                                                 Own Make Donegal 101 Sport Coat $895

Own Make Herringbone Multi-Plaid 101 Sport CoatOwn Make Herringbone Multi-Plaid 101 Sport Coat $995

Own Make Solid Cashmere 101 Hopsack Sport CoatOwn Make Solid Cashmere 101 Hopsack Sport Coat $1395

I was pleased to see this collection. It is always good to see more 3/2 roll sack jackets being offered and even more so suits, which are getting increasingly hard to come by. One thing that I did notice is that it was not easy to find all of these products on the website, especially the ties. I am not sure why they do not offer a way to view the whole collection. Nonetheless, I hope that Brooks Brothers continues to offer more traditional clothing that caters to those who prefer the  Natural Shoulder Ivy League (TNSIL) look.

Own Make jackets are not the only 3/2 roll sacks that are currently being offered. Bonus pics!

Cambridge Harris Tweed Crowsfoot Sport Coat

                                                     Cambridge Harris Tweed Crowsfoot Sport Coat $698

Cambridge Camel Hair Patch Pocket Jacket

Cambridge Camel Hair Patch Pocket Jacket $698Cambridge Camel Hair Patch Pocket Jacket

 Camel Hair Patch Pocket Jacket $698

oxford cloth button down
Jerrod Swanton is a simple man interested in simple, classic, and traditional style.

10 Comments on "Brooks Brothers Own Make"

  1. Orgetorix says:

    I think that last one may be the traditional sack camelhair, not a Cambridge model. The proportions certainly look very different.

  2. oxford cloth button down says:

    Orgetorix – You are correct. Copying and pasting caught up with me. Thanks for the heads up!

  3. HerrDavid says:

    Thanks for the bringing this to my attention, OCBD! Exciting stuff, especially if the shoulders are as soft as the current 3/2 sack blazer and Fitzgerald coats. Expensive yes, but still comparable to prices at the places that already sell this stuff (Press, O’Connell’s, etc). Plus BB’s sales will take the sting out a bit!

  4. Herr Doktor says:

    It all looks ill-fitting. The rise of the pants(and this is a personal pet-peeve of mine) is too short and it throws off the proportion of jacket to trouser. Compared to the old BB Sack Suit, these look like cheap knock-offs you used to see on Broadway. Even the length of the jacket is too short and would look odd on a tall or huskier guy. The details are there like the 3/2 lapel roll and patch pockets but they’re more a decoy to take the eye away from probably sub-standard workmanship. Sorry to have messed-up the punchbowl.

  5. Erik says:

    I’m inclined to agree with Herr Doktor, these don’t seem worth their price and I don’t care for the details. Besides the BB name, I don’t see any reason to buy these instead of comparable models from Southwick. Heck, the O’Connell’s house brand looks good and offers much better value.

    About the only thing I buy from Brooks anymore are ties.

    Also, has anyone seen their Natural Craftsmanship collection? Christian at Ivy Style had a good article on it. I think the mighty Brooks is straying into luxury class and worse…fast fashion.

  6. HerrDavid says:

    You gentlemen might be right, but I don’t think we can tell all that much about fit from these pictures. BB routinely dress their models in sizes too small for them, hence creating unsightly bermuda triangle effects and the like. I have a few contemporary BB coats and they look nothing like what’s shown online simply because I wear them at the appropriate size.

    But what really gives me hope for these particular coats is the following statement from The Trad: “It’s good looking and it looks to be extraordinarily well made — With guts and soul and a cut big enough for the over-40 crowd who requires their jacket to cover their rear. In short, no gimmicks or tricks. Straightforward, reserved, quiet.”

  7. Erik says:

    Well, I must say…if The Trad says they’re cool, they probably are. And, it is true that they often go a size down with the models and pin the jackets in the back for a tight look. Because, you know…GQ and all. My discontent with the line was probably a bit hasty and more the product of my recent (mild) outrage at the Natural Craftsmanship line.

    Since I just cut a bunch of checks for my wedding I may just be a bit spending weary, but I do feel these prices suck a little bit. I’m huge on quality, but an enthusiast for value. I don’t think you’d lose much (if any) to stick with Southwick or O’Connell’s. However, their lapels are more narrow, so if you’re a guy who likes ties in the range of 3″ and under, they’re a good combo of Trad and hip.

  8. rl1856 says:

    I would like to read your post regarding unhappiness with the current state of BB. I just went through the ordeal of trying to purchase a true BB Navy Sack blazer. I had reached the point were my now 9yr old blazer was ready for replacement. My first thought was to go to BB and purchase a newer version of exactly what I had. My salesman informed me that the BB Navy 3r2 Sack Blazer was now the “Madison”, but otherwise would be identicle to what I wanted. It was not. It was immediately appearant that the coat pattern had been recut with higher and trimmer armholes, along wtih narrower shoulders and a shorter overall lenght. Essentially a “hipster” fit. I tried on another 3r2 blazer with the same result. I then went to another traditional mens store in my town and after discussion with the owner found out that Southwick could easily produce exactly what I wanted. After a suitable wait and few minor adjustments, I have a new blazer that actually fits and looks better than what I had. Great natural shoulder, perfect fit around the collar, correctly lenght and of course correct 3r2 button spacing. It is ironic that I had to go to another store to purchase a Southwick blazer that BB (who owns Southwick) would not or could not sell to me in their own store !

  9. bullmoon says:

    I bought a couple of “Own Make” shirts from their WEB Site…

    I don’t know what patterns they revived that don’t have a pocket – I’m not young anymore and my recollection is that real shirts have pockets – have for a long time. Size: these are trim in all respects – I normally wear mediums (average but not super athletic 40R) and could not button the collar on this shirt and it was tight around the body. The large is much better, but still very trim – again, I don’t know what “old patterns” would have had such a fit. I think the “pattern” is mostly marketing hype. Otherwise the shirt is well made. I got two on sale – but that’s it for me with this cut. It’s a fashion shirt – probably a fashion line; nice fabric and construction, but not what Brooks Brothers was to me.

    I tried to post the above as a review on BB’s site and the review was rejected because it did not meet their publishing guidelines (which I could never find either). Pretty sad.

    HerrDavid’s link above nails my feelings:
    “Own Make is not your father’s sack suit, and it certainly isn’t intended to be. The question is — based on price, cut and styling — just whose is it? — CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD”

I would like to hear from you