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Uprising! by Billax

This post is a reprinting of a post on a forum that is frequented by Billax. Billax is not only one of my style role models, but a friend and a man that was Trad back when it was called Ivy League. If you have not read the first post that I reprinted of his on penny loafers I suggest that you do: Loafers by Billax

Curriculum member, Trip English, posted a provocative entry on his blog, speculating that higher rise, wider leg opening trousers are on the horizon and may supplant today’s low rise, narrow leg opening pants. You can read his piece at: Wider Days Ahead.

Here’s a picture of Fred Astaire, who often wore high rise, looser fitting trousers:

Fred Astaire Jumping in Loose Fitting TrousersTrip is pretty perspicacious and it wouldn’t surprise me at all if his speculations came to pass. I have a different wish, however unlikely it is to come to pass any time soon. I long for the pant shape of the late 50s and early 60s, which can be characterized as high rise, narrow leg opening. That’s what I wore in college in the late 50s and early 60s and, based on the pictorial evidence, that’s what the Ivy League guys were wearing then, too.

Why? Well, all one has to do is look at low rise chinos paired with a high-button-stance 3 roll 2 sport jacket, especially a jacket that has open quarters. You’ll see this look all the time on AAAC. The pants top out 4 inches below the belly button and five or six inches below the middle button of the jacket. You’ll see all the belt, lots of tie, and plenty of shirt below the middle button. Not my cup of tea. I ran across a number of pictures from Yale during the boom years that show a much tighter correspondence between trouser rise and middle button of the jacket. These come from the website, The Ivy League Look. Here are a few:

Yale Berkeley College 19571957

Yale 19581958

Wakefield cls 64 in 19621962

And finally, if you can get past the location of the Gentleman’s hand and look at his trouser rise, you’ll see:

Yale 19621962

So, that’s the visual evidence. But there is numerical evidence of high rise pants in the 60s as well. I measured up some of my trousers and added in some measurements published by Levi for their slim fit jeans and their vintage Sta-Prest cords. Here’s the data:
______________________________
Pants from c. 1955-1965 and 2012
All with 34″ waist and 29.25″ Cuff no break (Levi’s are hemmed no break)
Levi’s 513 slim jeans: 10″ rise |16″ Leg Opening (LO)
BB current 3/2 suit: 11″ rise |18″ LO
LE Tailored twills: 11″ rise | 16″ LO
O’Connell’s NOS: 12″ rise |15″ LO (c. 1960s)
Levis Vintage Sta-Prest Cords: 13.5″ rise |15.5: LO (c. late 1950s)

And here’s today’s J Crew look:

J.Crew Suit 1

J.Crew Suit 2

They can have the low rise/slim leg look. I’ll keep scouring the O’Connell’s NOS stock and scrounging through Press’s remnants, looking for those slim fit 12.5 inch rise beauties!

Loafers by Billax

Loafer rack full of shoes

This post is a reprinting of a post on AAAC’s Trad Forum by Billax. Billax is not only one of my style role models, but a friend and a man that was Trad back when it was called Ivy League.

The loafer is a slip-on shoe created from a soled and heeled Moccasin. It is a sub-set of slip-on shoes. Web searches show Spaulding to be the first producer in the USA of such a shoe, c. 1933. The MUCH more famous Bass Weejun didn’t show up until 4 years later – when G.H. Bass introduced the flat-strap penny loafer in 1937. The “Weejun” name is a corruption of Norwegian, in reference to the country of origin of the the original loafer. The term loafer, so Internet experts propose, comes from the “loafing sheds” on farms adjacent to their cattle barns. Apparently, Esquire Magazine spotted these slipper-like shoes on the feet of farmers working around the barns and loafing sheds of Norway and brought them to the attention of their then-vast readership. The link between Norwegian farmers, loafing sheds, Esquire, and slippers is, apparently, lost in the mists of time. Just as an aside, 1937 was a landmark year for iconic traditional apparel. Not only the year of the Weejun introduction, but also the year in which Baracuta introduced their G9 jacket. If you have both Weejuns and a G9, you’re pretty much approaching icon status yourself!

How does any of this relate to me? Well, from my escape from the womb in 1942 until late in High School, my Mom bought my shoes at Sears. Most folks today have no idea how dominant Sears was as a retailer in the late 40s through the 50s. There were very few specialty stores – of any kind – though we’d walk right past a Thom McAn shoe store on the way to buy shoes at Sears. How amazing Thom McAn was to me – a store that sold only shoes! Oh, Man, did I ever want to go inside! But, Sear’s it was. My Mom or Dad, though mostly my Mom, would ask the Sear’s shoe salesman to fit me with a pair of Oxfords,
Old Oxford Shoes
“with room to grow.” Out came the Brannock device.

BrannockMachine
After the measurement, the shoe guy brought out a pair of Oxfords – his choice of model as I recall – and put them on my dawgs. Then it was off to the fluoroscope.

FluoroscopebestI stood on the machine, put my feet into the slot, and the salesman, my Mom, and I all peered into our portals. The shoe guy would say, “Wiggle your toes,” and we’d all see a real-time, moving Xray of my feet within a vague outline of the shoe. The salesman would say, “Plenty of room to grow, Ma’am,” and my Mom would say, “We’ll take them.” That was the shoe buying experience for me until my Junior year in High School, when I no longer needed “room to grow” for my shoes.
Fluoroscopefootimage In the summer after my Junior year in High School, I asked the folks for a little cash to buy some Keds. Fifty cents a week for allowance wasn’t enough to allow me much autonomy. My Dad spoke up for me and gave me money enough to buy a pair of Keds. But a few months later, the college cousins came to my house for Thanksgiving, wearing identical Bass Weejuns. I was thunderstruck! They were the most beautiful shoes I had ever seen. Heck, other than ’57 Chevys, they were the most beautiful “things” I had ever seen.
1957-chevrolet The flat strap, the moccasin construction, the permanent sheen of the Brush-off leather – they were over the top to me. My Uncle Jack, Dad to the Northwestern cousin, saw me staring and studying. Although it’s a story for a different time, my Uncle Jack was a VERY sharp dresser. To close this sidebar, in the late 50’s he wore Florsheim Imperial Longwings, 3/2 Tweed sport coats, Amber-colored Peccary gloves (though I only came to know the word peccary a couple of years ago), and the most dramatic Black and White, Raglan sleeved, Wool Herringbone Top coat I have EVER seen.

But back on topic, my Uncle had a short, private, conversation with my Dad. After the guests had left, my Dad said he’d noticed my interest in the cousins’ shoes. He went on to say that, “I like those shoes myself, Son, so go get yourself a pair for college.” It was still ten months until I would enroll in college, but I’d been given the green light! They didn’t have Weejuns at Sears, or at Thom McAn, but I finally found them at a Department store. No fluoroscope machine was employed, but the “shoe guy” found me a great pair. I kept them – unused – in their box until the day I arrived at college.
flatstrap Weejun LOGAN I have had at least one pair of Weejun’s in my closet ever since. Life has mostly been good to me, and over the years, I’ve ended up with several pairs of loafers – in Shell Cordovan, in Sharkskin, and other exotica. But the shoes that most often have their trees removed are Weejuns.
Loafer Rack Full of ShoesDuring my college years, I wasn’t that sensible. Heck, I’m not that sensible now. I bought things that I didn’t need or even particularly like. I bought Hanover Venetian loafers and I never bought another pair of Venetians.

Vintage Hanover Venetians

  and I bought Bass tassel loafers, but didn’t wear them much
Bass Tassel Loafers  But I always kept going back to the Weejuns. I still do.  All loafers are not created equal!

  I find nothing wrong with Sebago Caymans and Sebago beefrolls.

Picture of Sebago beef Roll loafersHad my cousins’ worn those, I would have bought, and been loyal to, that brand. Of course, in the 50’s and 60’s nearly every shoe manufacturer made and sold flat strap Penny loafers. But the first ones I knew about and the ones with that evocative name, stayed my choice. I was – and I remain – a Weejuns guy.

Pick Your Battles Wisely

Tweed Jacket with no tie

I wanted to start this blog off with a scary line like, “Ties are dying. It’s almost over.” That would be true, but it would also be misleading because ties have been dying for a long while right alongside of business dress in general. While there is us fighting the good battle for decency we must chose our battles wisely.
Blazer without TieThis post is specifically for all of my office dwelling brethren. Those of you who like myself yearn to wear 3/2 suits, repp ties, and tweed sport coats until our hearts are content. But there are the casual loving others and there are a lot of them. So while in the past I have said that no one is going to give you permission to wear a tie. You also have to know when it makes sense to fall in line and ditch the tie to further your career with the hope that it can return to us one day.
Tweed jacket and No TieI have learned that falling in line is important in two places at my current workplace. These places are large company meetings and client facing meetings with other important people. In my day-to-day I am pretty free to wear a tie as I please, but in the two areas I identified I keep the sport coat and lose the tie. If I am being completely honest I do not hate the look as much I thought that I would. Don’t forget that you can add a Shetland to kick up the trad a notch!

Tweed Sport Coat with Shetland SweaterI hope this does not read that I have given up the fight. I have not. I just want to do my duty to younger readers making there way in the world of work by giving good advice. If it is of any consolation I remember a post that Billax (Billax Posts) one of my style role models wrote about his time at a firm when he had to do the same thing and this was long ago!

Cuffs, Please

I am not going to hide the fact that I am a huge proponent of cuffed chinos. I am. I admit it.

I am proponent of cuffs for two reasons. The first is weight which helps with drape. The second is that I think that it makes the pants look complete.I’ve stated why I like cuffs, but what don’t people like about cuffs?
Perfect Chinos WrinkledThey are too formal for chinos. This is the most common reason that I hear as to why people don’t like cuffs. These people are right. Cuffs are the more formal of the two, but outside of menswear blogs this knowledge is not widespread. For example, chinos were once super casual, but are now seen as dressy by most people.

I will also admit that at times I buy chinos for casual wear without a cuff. What I do is usually turn up the hem. I see this all of the time on other people from every range of style and pants from chinos to jean. All I am saying is don’t overthink the formality of it.
Moosehide MocsThe other reason that I hear is that people don’t like the way that they look. This is not a point that I can argue. All I can say is that to my eye chinos that are cuffed especially at work look better. They anchor down the leg opening so that it doesn’t flap around, provide additional structure, add a little taper to the chinos.
Salesman at J.Press New HavenI think that Billax speaks to it the best in Cuff, No Break when he says,

“I believe the importance of joints, intersections, and edges at the top is pretty well understood: the importance of the relationships between shirt, tie, jacket, lapel, notch shape, gorge height, and collar roll is a focal point of men who care about their appearance. It is, after all, what they see in the mirror every morning.

Not one man in a thousand has a mirror to see the equally important bottom of one’s outfit. Yet, those bottom elements – trouser length, crease, cuff, socks, and shoes – are easily seen by everyone who looks at you”

I am by no means saying that cuffs are a must. I fully understand that what looks good to some does not to others. What I am saying is that if you do not cuff just give it some consideration. Billax is much more convincing that I am: Cuff, No Break by Billax

Pink, Grey, & Patterns: A Look in Review

I rarely post a what I wear on a regular basis unlike I do on my Instagram account (see here), but as I have said before one of the best ways to learn is by watching others. I people watch in real life and on the internet where I have found style mentors such as Billax (Wearing the Ivy League Look Since 1958). All of this watching has helped me learn how to put together a good looking rig (at least, every now and then). In fact, a rig that I wore the other week garnered so much positive feedback (both online & IRL) that I thought it was worth sharing.
Grey Tweed, Pink tie, and chinosGrey Tweed & Pink TieGant TieThere are a few reasons why I think that this outfit was a hit. One, is that I did not grab my typical striped tie, but instead reached for a beautiful medallion tie from Gant. Two, the tie is pink. This is not a color that I wear very often. Especially when it comes to ties. Third, the grey tweed sport coat besides having all the Ivy details has lines of blue and green running through it that work well with the tie. The final reason is that it all just works really well together.