MTM 3/2 Roll Sack Options

I am slowly, but surely making my way into the market for a made-to-measure sport coat.This brings up the question of who offers the best MTM 3/2 roll sack?

When I think of getting an MTM sack I automatically think Southwick. They make the best 3/2 roll sacks for Brooks Brothers, J.Press and basically everyone else in the trad universe, but they are definitely not the only players in the game especially when it comes to MTM.

Southwick Douglas 3/2 roll sack
I already spoke to Southwick’s credentials above. They currently offer two 3/2 roll sack models for MTM: the Douglas (See the example above from O’Connells) and the Cambridge. The Douglas is more traditional by today’s standards with a longer body and wider lapels while the Cambridge model has all of the features that an Ivyist could ever want. The best part of MTM is that you can tweak the dimensions of these jackets to work for you. Southwick is at the top of my list for now. They also have an easy to use dealer finder (Southwick Store Finder).
Samuelsohn 3/2 roll sack Sport Coat
The picture of the Samuelsohn Greenwich II model from O’Connell’s (See Here) above always makes me stare. I don’t know much about Samuelsohn except for the shape of the sack above looks pretty perfect to me. That alone is enough to me interested. If anyone has any experience with this model I would love to hear about it.
H.Freeman MTM Sack
H.Freeman is another option for an MTM 3/2 roll sport coat. I remember that Christian at Ivy Style purchased one of their jackets(Measure For Measure: H. Freeman MTM Sportcoat). I believe that their 3/2 roll sack model is called the Naturalaire. I checked the website to verify this and to find out where H.Freeman was available, but the website was the definition of useless. I am sure that an email will clear everything up.

Southwick, Samuelson, and H.Freeman are the three companies that I am currently considering for an MTM sport coat. I think that I would be happy with any one of them, but because of the MTM aspect I will leave you a few of the other considerations that are playing a role in my decision. Which of these companies has a “distributor” near me? How good is the tailor at that location? Do they understand the natural shoulder look?

oxford cloth button down
Jerrod Swanton is a simple man interested in simple, classic, and traditional style.

13 Comments on "MTM 3/2 Roll Sack Options"

  1. NCJack says:

    I seem to recall an old advertisement for H. Freeman that said the Naturalaire was the “original” natural shoulder, or some such. Anyway, it is a true natural, and the few suits of theirs that I’ve had are very comfortable and well-made and -fitting.

  2. Fred Johnson says:

    You may want to investigate Nick Hilton also, I don’t have the contact info but I’m sure you can find it.

  3. oxford cloth button down says:

    NC Jack- Thanks for sharing. I am glad to hear that it does have a natural shoulder. Here is a little bit more about H.Freeman (taken from their websites)

    Along with Nick Freeman’s fashion inspiration, the H. Freeman style is an adaptation of H. Freeman and his wife, both master tailors from Russia, who opened a custom tailoring shop in 1885 in the University district of Philadelphia building their trademark on the Ivy League look of a soft, natural shoulder in tailored clothing.

    Fred – Great recommendation. I have had my eye on Nick’s wares for a while. Great looking stuff. Unfortunately, their MTM services are only available at their shop. If I was in the area they would be high on my list.

  4. Carmelo says:

    I like very much the cut of H.Freeman coat.
    Remember to me the best sacks of 60s.
    Southwick Cambridge can be a good alternative.

  5. Drew says:

    First-time commenter, so take me with a grain of salt. You might want to look into Brooks Brothers for MTM. The Brethren really do offer a nice selection of fabrics and other options in the 1818 lineup (which is made by Southwick with the added benefit of cutting out the middleman) at a pretty stellar price point. An MTM jacket from Samuelsohn at the men’s store nearest my house (Drinkwater’s in Cambridge, Mass.) starts at about $1,200 and goes up from there depending on fabric, and prices at the the Andover Shop are about the same, though the fabric choices you can get there are basically unmatched. Brooks seriously undercuts the competition — I think jackets start at about $800.

  6. Matt says:

    I get the Southwick through J Press and am very happy with them. They work by sending a Southwick rep in to help with the measurements so the local tailor may not be super important for you, though he will finish items like the cuffs.

  7. oxford cloth button down says:

    Thanks for the feedback Matt & Drew. I truly appreciate it.

    I tried to get some prices together prior to this post, but getting people to ballpark me an estimate was challenging. I did not ask about Brooks MTM, but I did ask about their select suiting which opens up the fabric options for different fits. I am interested in 1818 Madison 3/2 sack in camelhair. They quoted me around $1000. It would be interesting to learn that their MTM is cheaper.

    Southwick seems to start at $795, but if you can track down a trunk show they usually offer a sale price of $595. I still have a few calls to make, but I am interested to hear what H.Freeman is charging these days. Christian had the jacket featured in the post made for $640, but that was a few years back.

  8. NaturalShoulder says:

    I have been quite happy with my Southwick Douglas MTM suit. I am planning to order a Southwick Cambridge from Read Wall when I travel to DC next month since they informed me I can alter the lapel width and body length (unfortunately my local Southwick dealer told me I cannot do so). I have also had a Southwick Dorset suit in MTM. I have been very pleased with the natural shoulder on it as well.

    I have have Greenwich II jacket I purchased several years ago off AAAT and really like the cut as well.

    I do not have experience with H. Freeman.

    I have read others opine that Samuelsohn’s tailoring is superior to that of Southwick. I do not know enough about tailoring to offer an opinion. I think you will be pleased with either.

  9. Gittes says:

    I have a Samuelsohn Greenwich II (OTR), and absolutely love it. It’s everything you’d want in a 3/2 sack. Mine happens to be a light weight silk/linen, full canvass, beautiful work. Samuelsohn has grown to be perhaps my favorite brand. Of course, they also make for J. Press and other private stores, but I haven’t tried those lines. Their models range from constructed to soft. In my experience, they tend to run a bit small (i.e., my Greenwich II is a size 44R, and has a 46″ chest). Dollar-for-dollar, I think it’s one of the best brands on the market. Not as rich as Oxxford, yet a notch above H-F. The “Goldilocks Zone” for me.

  10. Craig says:

    Hello Jerrod,

    thanks for pointing out the Greenwich II model. As a western Canadian it’s hard/impossible to find any ‘ivy’ jackets locally, but Samuelsohn is fairly represented in my local Menswear stores and could be a viable option for MTM. I may also have to investigate if Coppley offers any jackets that could approximate that style though MTM.

    • Jason says:

      Jerrod. I hear your dilemma as a fellow Canuck. We generally see a lot of European influenced garments here. Samuelsohn does offer a sack jacket and these garments are beautiful and are, as stated, full canvass and also have hardworking in them (how much is up for debate). They also have an extensive range of selection of fabrics — including really heavy ones.

      Coppley on the other hand also has a sack model for MTM. You would be looking at the Gibson body (The Jason model was perfect Ivy but now has a slightly structured shoulder). Coppley is half canvassed and does not have any handwork. Also, there fabrics, while extensive, are not as good as Saumelsohn.

      Both companies will do the jacket with patch pockets (or patch flap like my new gabardine), with a 3 roll 2 and single vent.

      Now, all that being said, Coppley will be about $200.00-$300.00 less expensive than Saumuelsohn. Do I think Samuelsohn is worth the extra money? Absolutely. But that is a budget question and both are fine jackets. Be sure to wait for a MTM sale where you will save 25-30%. This can happen anytime, but I know Coppley holds two at Christmas time and in July (both times to compensate for the factory being closed).

  11. M says:

    RE: Your March 18 comment… Southwick J Press suits tend to run me about $1100 but they can vary widely by grade of cloth. They have steep discounts if you order multiples so I usually get a combo of suits and sport coats and the % discount is dramatic. A sport coat is usually about 6-700 for me. This is about the time of year they usually have their spring sale I think.

  12. Zach says:

    Samuelsohn has more handwork and details than Southwick. The full canvas is standard. Southwick has better options for fabrics that you’d be drawn to, considering your tastes. You can do full canvas with Southwick for around $100 up charge . Both make great natural shoulders. It really comes down to how you want the shoulders, so try on what you can. Southwick also offers an unstructured shoulder that is even softer than the standard.

    I have no experience with H Freeman. Empire makes a great soft shoulder, and I’m pretty sure they can make a sack.

    I hope you find what you are looking for, it can be a long journey,

I would like to hear from you