Trads spend countless hours trying to find the OCBD that produces the perfect collar roll (learn more about collar roll). Often this process can be cut short by simply going to Brooks Brothers, but that does not work for everyone. The reason why is that collar roll relies on a lot of variables. Just to name a few there is the length of the collar points, the placement of the buttons, of the button holes. the height of the collar, the thickness of the material, and this does not even start to take into account all of the variables of there wearer, but lately I have started to think about another variable.
I had never given much thought to the top button of my shirts before. However, when I started to search for a new OCBD provider it jumped out at me pretty quick. The first OCBD that I tried was from Brooks Brothers. When I put it on I immediately noticed that where the placket and collar end it has a square edge where as the shirts that I am currently wear (Lands’ End Original OCBD) are rounded.
This got me thinking about how these two different styles may effect collar roll. The rounded edges seem to help establish the visual of what looks like a single point of origination for the collar roll where the square or rectangular shape can make each side of the collar look independent of one another due to the distance between them at the top of the collar. I also noticed that when the top button is undone that the rounded edges create a more open look around the neck than the rectangular finish. This could be on of the reasons why there is such a high demand for vintage 6-button Brooks Brothers shirts.
This is yet another variable to add into the complicated equation of creating the perfect collar roll. Although it may have more to do with the resistance to change than actual functionality or additional collar roll benefits as of now I prefer the rounded edge. Out of the usual bunch of suspects (Brooks Brothers, Mercer Shirts, Michael Spencer, etc) I believe that J.Press and O’Connell’s are the only ones that use the rounded edge, but I do notice various degrees of variation in the rectangular shape. I will leave you with one last piece of advice. When you find the shirt that produces your ideal collar roll, buy more.
If you have not heard of J.Press Blue yet I will fill you in. Blue is Press’s second shot at courting the younger market with “updated classics.” Here is how Press describes the line,
J.Press Blue is our newest collection in the J. Press brand. J. Press Blue represents a modern evolution of the long established J. Press heritage. The collection is more modern, with an updated, youthful flair. The new line is a direct descendant of J. Press heritage, inheriting the appreciation for fine tailoring and quality fabrics. It has slimmer fit with an adventurous use of fabric and prefect details.
J. Press Blue is the embodiment of the J.Press man, who experiments with and tests the boundaries of his more traditional fashion sense.
I checked out the collection online and was impressed with their Spring/Summer sport coat collection. The three jackets that stood out to me were the cord jacket ($495), the navy gingham sport coat ($625), and the poplin blazer ($480). All three jackets are 3/2 sack with patch pockets and hook vents. They are moderately priced ranging from $480-$625.
I thought this was a nice mix of warm weather offerings. I am partial to the poplin jacket, because of how much use I get out of my old Brooks Brothers Wash ‘n’ Wear jacket (Wash ‘n’ Wear post). The navy Gingham jacket is very seasonal, but the small scale of the gingham a little more versatile. To round out the options a cord jacket is offered instead of the more common seersucker.
In general these “updated classics” lines don’t turn out so great. York Street left a lot to be desired and Brooks Brother’s Red Fleece fails to incorporate the Trad/Ivy details into their clothing. Ralph Lauren Rugby had its hit and misses, but it taught me a lesson. A sweater that I purchased from Rugby and wear often reminds me to not only take the good with the bad, but to appreciate that good.
J.Press Blue has potential. It has the potential to provide 3/2 sack sport coats with all the details at price point that doesn’t deter all, but the die hard. This is a space that I would love to see served as limited availability of Trad/Ivy and the high prices it commands set high barriers to entrance.
We will see were the Blue line goes. Will it do any better than York Street? Will it be around longer than Rugby? Will it fit me? All of these questions will be answered in time. Even if Blue does not live up to my very low expectations I hope that I remember to take advantage of the good items that they have to offer instead of focusing on what’s wrong with overall collection.
Rarely do you read about jeans on Trad & Ivy forums or blogs. It is a taboo topic. Just to provide a little context around the complex relationship between Trad and jeans, Christian from Ivy Style’s denim post was called “The End is Here: An Ivy Style Jeans Post.” Wheat jeans on the other hand have managed to escape the stigma of their blue brothers and have gained acceptance into the the world of Trad & Ivy.
Wheat jeans get their credibility primarily from being a part of the 1960’s west coast prep look. From what I can put together wheat jeans gained popularity sometime in the early 60’s as part of the west coast prep/Beach Boy/surfer look. Wheat jeans were worn right along with Pendletons, Purcells, and all of the other west coast classics that have worked their way into Ivy League closets
There are currently two great threads about wheat denim that touch on their history and where you can find a pair now. AAAT member Gamma68, started the “The Trad Wheat Jeans Thread.” One of the gems of this thread is member Reuben’s suggestion of getting a pair of wheat jeans from Wrangler. He recommends the Wrangler Cowboy Cut in tan (See here) and others seem to agree. Another great read is Talk Ivy’s, “Surf Ivy/The West Coast Look,” started by Member Tommy. There are a ton of great west cost prep pictures to check out (Like the ones I used above) in this thread.
Wheat jeans are no longer just for surfers on the west coast. Though they still have their California cool vibe they are also worn by the crowd that just doesn’t really like jeans. For this crowd wheat jeans allows them to add a casual denim fabric into the mix without having to give up tan color in which they are so comfortable. I don’t have a pair of wheat jeans myself, but I am contemplating getting a pair.
Spring is here. The weather is warmer, plants are growing, and it is raining…a lot. In preparation for the season of rain I picked up a new umbrella and it has already come in handy.
Umbrellas like all things menswear come at every price point imaginable. Derek from Die! Workwear and Put This On has several nice pieces on umbrellas including high-end bespoke umbrellas, not-so-high-end umbrellas, and Umbrellas: Cheap, Expensive, and Everything In-Between. If you are like me, you are looking for one that is reliable and affordable, and perfect.
My first new umbrella purchase was a mistake (Pictured above). I was out shopping for others when I saw a BB #1 striped travel umbrella at my local Brooks Brothers outlet. I thought that it would be a fun little umbrella to keep in my work bag for pop-up showers. Plus, it was on sale for $10. The first pop-up shower showed up and I nearly broke the umbrella opening it. Time for a replacement. This was all my fault. I know better.
I wasted no time starting my search for umbrella number two. I wanted an umbrella with a little bit of color to brighten up my “uniform” . I struggled to find any that fit the bill until I saw a Brooks Brothers umbrella in their signature tartan (See here). There were two versions a cream option and navy option. I went with the navy as the cream looked a little Burberry-ish. It was more ($80) than I had originally planned on spending, but it checked all of my boxes.
I had the chance to put my new umbrella to some good use this week. It withstood its first rain storm and the accompanying 20 mph winds. It also garnered a few compliments all while feeling sturdy and well made. However, time and a few more storms will be its ultimate test. My ultimate test will be not leaving it behind while I am out and about.