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Brooks Brothers New OCBD Review by Fading Fast


Lately there has been more talk than normal about Brooks Brothers OCBD. This is because Brooks recently made some significant changes to a shirt that many have come to know and love. Some of these changes such as the removing of the collar lining have collar roll enthusiast salivating while the price jump ($90 to $140) has prevented some from taking the plunge.

I have not purchased one of the new shirts for myself so I can’t speak to the specific pros and cons, but Ask Andy Trad member Fading Fast has and can. I offer up Fading Fast’s take on the shirt, because over time he has shown that he possesses a great temperament for such endeavors.

Thoughts from Fading Fast

My $140 list (paid $105) BB OCBD came and my early thought are:

Positives: Great feel to the material and the unlined collar and cuffs are spot on – what an OCBD should have. Nobody has a more definitive Oxford blue color than BB (which might be tautological) – it is the perfect tone. The mother-of-pearl buttons add to its understated quality.

Negatives: For me (and there is no right or wrong), the perfect OCBD needs a back-of-the-collar button, breast pocket, a locker loop and (less important) a sleeve placket button. Without the first three, the shirt feels more formal than it should, almost as if it is confused.

Overall, the material, unlined collar and cuffs, MOP buttons make it wonderful shirt, the lack of classic OCBD details as noted make it not perfect and, for me, not worth the price.

Last snarky comment. In the little insert that came with the shirt, BB says “…More than a century after its introduction, the classic returns with authentic details. The cuffs and button-down collar are as soft as always and featured genuine mother-of-pearl buttons…” How can it both “return” and be “as always….” If they had “as always” kept the details, the shirt wouldn’t have had to “return.”

(Under the) Weather Updates


I found myself under the weather this weekend. The cool wet weather has not helped either. I have spent the majority of my downtime either sleeping or drinking tea. With not much creative energy I thought that I would take this time to do a few updates.
Moosehide MocsI have been a moc binge. First it was my L.L. Bean camp mocs (A trip to Bean), then a pair of Minnetonka classic drivers (The Summer of Mocs), and then another pair of Minnentonkas. I originally purchased a size 8 in the classic driver. It ended up being a little too narrow. I grabbed an 8.5 and they are about perfect. I liked them so much that I ordered a pair of the Moosehide driving mocs (see here). They are remarkably comfortable. More so than the drivers, but they don’t look quite as cool. They also run smaller and don’t come in half sizes. I ended up with a size 10.
Pink Brushed ShetlandMy next pick-up was very similar. I liked my brushed PRL sweater (Featured in my sweater showdown) so much that I purchased the pink one when they went back on sale. The pink is…pink! I am not shy about wearing pink, but this pushed me into new territory. I have worn the sweater at least 10 times since I purchased it. The pink did not deter me at all. I enjoyed wearing it.

I probably don’t do updates enough. These two updates in particular highlight the biggest reasons that there would be updates. The first is fit. I am sure that any of you that online shop can relate. The next is that I like it something so much that I buy another. This is something that I encourage and will have more on that in an upcoming post. Now I am off to rest.

Collar Roll Variables: The Top Button


Trads spend countless hours trying to find the OCBD that produces the perfect collar roll (learn more about collar roll). Often this process can be cut short by simply going to Brooks Brothers, but that does not work for everyone. The reason why is that collar roll relies on a lot of variables. Just to name a few there is the length of the collar points, the placement of the buttons, of the button holes. the height of the collar, the thickness of the material, and this does not even start to take into account all of the variables of there wearer, but lately I have started to think about another variable.
Rectangular FinishRounded FinishI had never given much thought to the top button of my shirts before. However, when I started to search for a new OCBD provider it jumped out at me pretty quick. The first OCBD that I tried was from Brooks Brothers. When I put it on I immediately noticed that where the placket and collar end it has a square edge where as the shirts that I am currently wear (Lands’ End Original OCBD) are rounded.

This got me thinking about how these two different styles may effect collar roll. The rounded edges seem to help establish the visual of what looks like a single point of origination for the collar roll where the square or rectangular shape can make each side of the collar look independent of one another due to the distance between them at the top of the collar. I also noticed that when the top button is undone that the rounded edges create a more open look around the neck than the rectangular finish. This could be on of the reasons why there is such a high demand for vintage 6-button Brooks Brothers shirts.
Open Collar BlockedOpen Collar Rounded

This is yet another variable to add into the complicated equation of creating the perfect collar roll. Although it may have more to do with the resistance to change than actual functionality or additional collar roll benefits as of now I prefer the rounded edge. Out of the usual bunch of suspects (Brooks Brothers, Mercer Shirts, Michael Spencer, etc) I believe that J.Press and O’Connell’s are the only ones that use the rounded edge, but I do notice various degrees of variation in the rectangular shape. I will leave you with one last piece of advice. When you find the shirt that produces your ideal collar roll, buy more.


Summer Blues: J.Press Blue


If you have not heard of J.Press Blue yet I will fill you in. Blue is Press’s second shot at courting the younger market with “updated classics.” Here is how Press describes the line,

J.Press Blue is our newest collection in the J. Press brand. J. Press Blue represents a modern evolution of the long established J. Press heritage. The collection is more modern, with an updated, youthful flair. The new line is a direct descendant of J. Press heritage, inheriting the appreciation for fine tailoring and quality fabrics. It has slimmer fit with an adventurous use of fabric and prefect details.

J. Press Blue is the embodiment of the J.Press man, who experiments with and tests the boundaries of his more traditional fashion sense.

Press Blue Cord Sport CoatI checked out the collection online and was impressed with their Spring/Summer sport coat collection. The three jackets that stood out to me were the cord jacket ($495), the navy gingham sport coat ($625), and the poplin blazer ($480). All three jackets are 3/2 sack with patch pockets and hook vents. They are moderately priced ranging from $480-$625.
J.Press Blue Poplin BlazerI thought this was a nice mix of warm weather offerings. I am partial to the poplin jacket, because of how much use I get out of my old Brooks Brothers Wash ‘n’ Wear jacket (Wash ‘n’ Wear post). The navy Gingham jacket is very seasonal, but the small scale of the gingham a little more versatile. To round out the options a cord jacket is offered instead of the more common seersucker.
J.Press Blue Gingham Sport CoatIn general these “updated classics” lines don’t turn out so great. York Street left a lot to be desired and Brooks Brother’s Red Fleece fails to incorporate the Trad/Ivy details into their clothing. Ralph Lauren Rugby had its hit and misses, but it taught me a lesson. A sweater that I purchased from Rugby and wear often reminds me to not only take the good with the bad, but to appreciate that good.

J.Press Blue has potential. It has the potential to provide 3/2 sack sport coats with all the details at price point that doesn’t deter all, but the die hard. This is a space that I would love to see served as limited availability of Trad/Ivy and the high prices it commands set high barriers to entrance.

We will see were the Blue line goes. Will it do any better than York Street? Will it be around longer than Rugby? Will it fit me? All of these questions will be answered in time. Even if Blue does not live up to my very low expectations I hope that I remember to take advantage of the good items that they have to offer instead of focusing on what’s wrong with overall collection.

Spring Showers…Require Umbrellas

New Umbrella

Spring is here. The weather is warmer, plants are growing, and it is raining…a lot. In preparation for the season of rain I picked up a new umbrella and it has already come in handy.

Umbrellas like all things menswear come at every price point imaginable. Derek from Die! Workwear and Put This On has several nice pieces on umbrellas including high-end bespoke umbrellasnot-so-high-end umbrellas, and Umbrellas: Cheap, Expensive, and Everything In-Between. If you are like me, you are looking for one that is reliable and affordable, and perfect.
Brooks Brothers Outlet UmbrellaMy first new umbrella purchase was a mistake (Pictured above). I was out shopping for others when I saw a BB #1 striped travel umbrella at my local Brooks Brothers outlet. I thought that it would be a fun little umbrella to keep in my work bag for pop-up showers. Plus, it was on sale for $10. The first pop-up shower showed up and I nearly broke the umbrella opening it. Time for a replacement. This was all my fault. I know better.
Brooks Brothers Umbrella

I wasted no time starting my search for umbrella number two. I wanted an umbrella with a little bit of color to brighten up my “uniform” . I struggled to find any that fit the bill until I saw a Brooks Brothers umbrella in their signature tartan (See here). There were two versions a cream option and navy option. I went with the navy as the cream looked a little Burberry-ish. It was more ($80) than I had originally planned on spending, but it checked all of my boxes.

I had the chance to put my new umbrella to some good use this week. It withstood its first rain storm and the accompanying 20 mph winds. It also garnered a few compliments all while feeling sturdy and well made. However, time and a few more storms will be its ultimate test. My ultimate test will be not leaving it behind while I am out and about.