As you can tell from my last few posts I have been keeping a watchful eye on F/W 15 releases. This is something that you must do when your size is either produced in limited numbers or is very common. Mine is the former, and I am in the market for a sport coat.
I was browsing the Press site when I noticed a new fit name called, “modern.” The name was appended to a nice looking rust colored Donegal sport coat featured above (link to sport coat). At first I imagined that modern simply meant slimmer and shorter. While I am sure that this is true the most interesting aspect of the modern fit is that there is no vent.
Why no vent? I have seen many jackets without a vent so it is not a complete shock. I personally associate vent-less jackets with the ‘80s, but they have been around long before that and are probably more commonly associated with formal coats such as dinner jackets. However, neither of these associations are particularly modern, but the vent-less jacket does have one association that could be viewed as modern and that is the Continental look. Perhaps this was their inspiration.
I doubt that any one reading this was shocked by the title. If anything, they were probably wondering which modern move it is that I was referring. It will be interesting to see if this fit stays around or if it will be gone next season. Maybe this is part of the new J.Press Blue Line (see here)?
Everything has its place, and a vent-less jacket does have its place. But I will admit that a tweed sport coat is an unusual choice for such a style. From what I know, jacket vents were derived from the coats often worn while riding horseback. Tuxedos and some suits or blazers can definitely exist without vents, but I think the sport coat kinda requires a vent to maintain its “sport” heritage. I don’t want to blindly follow tradition, it just seems to take a little functionality out of the coat.
I’m a big J Press fan, so this isn’t a deal breaker for me, but I probably wouldn’t purchase a vent less jacket. I am, however, looking forward to their Southwick jackets going on sale.
I was in the DC store two weeks ago and saw these. I noticed that the shoulders were very soft, and I saw the “Pressclusive” tag. I immediately turned to Chris and exclaimed “did Cohen finally change their model?!” He rolled his eyes and said “no, it’s another slim fit experiment.”
I don’t think I would wear one of these, but I can appreciate the existence of these jackets. They remind me very much of 80’s Italian menswear – soft shoulders, no darts, high gorge, but by virtue of the way the back panel is shaped and the lack of vent, they have a lot of waist suppression and very open quarters.
It’s kind of like J. Press goes Neapolitan.
L-Feld – Thanks for the ground report!
My tuxedo jacket is ventless, and I like it that way. My stroller jacket is ventless, and that’s good, too. I have a ventless double-breasted blazer, and I wish it had side vents. I think I’ll pass on ventless informal jackets from now on.
Sorry to be chiming in late, but I was in the Cambridge store a couple of weeks ago. I tried one on. No vent, but it fit a bit like one of BB’s Own Make sport coats from this season. A little more snug around the middle than what something from Press usually is off the rack, but waist suppression was fairly minimal. Soft, soft shoulders, and not at all like wearing something from the Brooks Milano line or J. Crew. It moved with me and draped well on me — and wouldn’t have needed much alteration to fit my v-shaped torso. I liked, but it was only available in store in gray. I was looking for brown. At full price, I decided not to bite — wasn’t exactly what I was looking for. But I’d pick it up on sale in a heartbeat.
Drew – Thanks for the detailed report!