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The Old Knit Tie

Old College ties

Knit ties are a great choice for those that want a casual looking tie. Cotton knits are especially casual. Silk knits are also casual, but they are a notch dressier than cotton. Knit ties are easy enough to source in solid colors and stripes pop up here and there. They also won’t break the bank. I have wanted a striped knit tie for a while now, but have yet to find one that speaks to me.
Knit tie #1

This is where Old College Ties comes into the picture. Old College Ties got their start back in 2011 making up crew ties for Groton School. Since then Old College Ties has helped to revive the rowing tradition of crew ties among a number of schools. You can read more about their history here (Old College Ties).
Knit Tie # 3

One of the coolest features of the site is the tie widget (Thanks for the tip Gamm68!). It allows you to make up ties virtually experimenting with colors and stripes. As you can see from the images above I had no trouble whipping up a few ties that I was ready to purchase.

Knit Tie #4

Old College Tie will make up custom ties for your team, club, or event. The minimum order is 20 at $30 per tie which I found to be quite reasonable. Now what club to join…

True Confessions of a Trad: Rigging the Rig

Cuff Cheat

We all keep secrets. Sometimes we keep secrets, because someone has confided in us. Other times we keep secrets, because there are things about ourselves that we would prefer remain unknown. This week I have decided to share one of my own secrets. This secret falls into the latter category. Bear with me as I confess to one of my dirty trad secrets.
Cuff Cheat 2Fit is something that we (clothes horses) are always going on and on about. If it doesn’t fit it the fact that an article of clothing has all the right retail does not matter. This way of thinking leads to either a never ending number of visits to your tailor or hours in front of a sewing machine. This is where my secret begins.

9 out of 10 times the cuff on my shirts are too large. This looks sloppy even when the sleeve is the correct length. Now this is an easy fix. You simply remove the button and re-attach it a little further away. This is what makes my secret so bad. I am not avoiding much work at all. What I do instead of addressing the issue is to double over the cuff so that it is attached to the button from the outside. This makes the sleeve tighter. It also creates a little chaos around the gauntlet button, but it is not easily detected by the untrained tie.

I hope that some of you can relate to my secret. I am sure that I am not alone in taking short cuts to artificially improve the fit of my clothes. I have a few more secrets that I will be sharing in the future. I also want you to know that I have moved the buttons on most of shirts at this time. Please forgive me for my transgressions. What secrets do you have?

Court Classics

IMG_9485

Wimbledon is well under way and I am sure that many of you have already hit the court more than a few times. During my search a pair of classic golf shoes (See here), I ran into this tongue-in-cheek post about court attire from The Glengarry Sporting Club (The first post in well over a year). The article made me laugh which is reason enough to pass it along.
New Yorker Tennis 2.1The article paints a picture of the sport that makes it clear to the reader that the “game” is not limited to one’s athletic ability. Tennis in this instance is as much social as it is an athletic pursuit. The post is filled with witty lines about how to succeed on this court. For example,

Color should be provided by the ball, the court surface, and your tan. Otherwise, stick with white. It really isn’t just for Wimbledon.

But what if said quality (old simple shoes) results in discomfort on the court? It has happened to me and all I can say is that there is no better reason to stop play for a drink of water (or a sip of your Bloody Mary if it’s that kind of club.)

The contrast of a clean white crew sock above a scuffed-up or clay-stained sneaker sends a message to your opponent: I’ve never not been doing this.

For those of you that are taking the article (or yourself) too seriously this line will add some perspective.

Naturally, I recommend you take all of this with a grain of salt. If score matters, go technical. None of this need apply in the world of leagues, ratings, or sponsored tournaments. Even I keep a pair of fairly recent (mostly white) Asics on hand for when a match is anything other than fun. (But it’s always fun, really.)

Here is a link for the full read: Playing Court to the Classics

The Pursuit of the Perfect Pair of Chinos: Update

The Uniform

Christian from Ivy-Style recently blogged about his Full Rise, Narrow Leg: The Ivy Style Khaki Project. This immediately reminded me of my search for collegiate cut chinos which are also known for their full rise and narrow leg. More importantly it reminded me that I owe you all an update.
Perfect Chino Search

After experimenting with so many pairs of chinos I actually kind of gave up. Well not so much gave as  took a break. During my search for collegiate cut chinos I ordered a few pair of J.Crew Essential Chinos in Classic fit to wear while the others were being altered. In the end I was content with the J.Crew chinos.

I have been wearing these J.Crew chinos for years. They are far from perfect, but the rise is ok for me and the leg opening is 7.75” on a 29 waist (this is one of my biggest challenges) with a 29” inseam. I have made one change that had a good impact. I have stopped washing and drying my chinos on hot. I think that this has helped to add a little more rise and overall volume to this set of chinos compared with my older ones.
The Perfect Chinos

Are the J.Crew classic fit chinos the perfect chino? No, they are not. Are they as cool as the pair pictured above? No way. Do they work for now? Yes, they fit decent enough and it is great to stop thinking about how much better they could be. Do I still want to taper them a quarter inch? You know that I do.

While I may have fought off my urge for collegiate cut trousers for the moment I am very interested in seeing how Christian’s project turns out. Maybe they will be the ones?

For those of you that have not read about my search for collegiate cut chinos you can find links below.

Collegiate Cut Chinos Part 1

Collegiate Cut Chinos Part 2

Collegiate Cut Chinos Part 3

Collegiate Cut Chinos Part 4

Lean Garments: Pre-Order Popovers

Feature

It seems that popovers all are the rage again this summer. I previously published my top popover picks (Top of the Pops), but last week this popover from Lean Garments popped up on my radar. Blue OCBD PopoverIf you aren’t familiar with Lean Garments they are a new company out of Finland headed up by two 20-year old engineering students. They started with the goal of making an “affordable OCBD with proper unlined collar roll and other details for our friends here at university campus”. Their OCBD features an unlined 3.5” Collar and sells for $32. The drawback is alpha sizing, but if the sizing works for you that is quite a deal.

After tackling a Chambray shirt they are now rolling out a Popover OCBD (Available in blue and white) for $35. The popover appears to have the same collar length of the OCBD. They are long sleeved with a flap pocket, rear box pleat and a rounded short hem that was made to be worn untucked. I dig the white popover. There will be quibbles about the dimensions I am sure. I have my own, but at least they provide a detailed measurement chart (Popover sizing) to save us from complete disappointment and frustration.

It looks like I waited too long to post this and they now only have a handful more pre-orders. Their limited supply is a common complaint. In fact, it is the only complaint that I have heard apart from the alpha sized OCBDs.

In their defense, Lean Garments started as a student project (not sure where it stands now) and even at their young age they have learned what many other brands still have not which is that it is always better to leave the people wanting more. This is a brand to keep your eye on as they continue to roll out classic casual pieces at a great detail-to-dollar ratio.