People seem to be excited for the new J.Crew gitant-fit OCBD (see it here). It reminds of the the warm welcome that the Gap Giant fit OCBD received a few years ago (see here). I get it. An affordable all-cotton-must-iron OCBD with collar roll is not easy to find these days. I have my doubts that this the best OCBD for your dollar though. Below are a few thoughts and a few options for OCBDs under $100.
I heard about the new J.Crew OCBD through the grapevine. I took a look. It looks pretty good, but I am not sold on that collar for $98 (top image). I wondered if they were a better buy than the alpha sized not made in the USA $98 Brooks Brothers OCBD (pictured above). The collar size looks better here. I know that nobody is planning on plopping down $100 for either shirt. Just waiting on that inevitable sale price. The Brooks are Currently $78 on sale (see them here) , but I have seen them on sale for 4 for $250 which gets the price down just under $65 a piece. I guess the question is how low will the J.Crew price go?
There are a few more players in the all-cotton must-iron OCBD for under $100 and not all of them are alpha sized. For example, you have Spier & Mackay which get a lot of fanfare starting at $58 (see here). I have never tried one. My size is never available, but I digress. From what I have seen they look good. You can get a custom fit one from Ratio for $79, but only in white (see here). Other colors are $89-$139. You could also go to Proper cloth for $95 (see here). Both of these have a really nice collar roll and you can add most of the bells and whistles. I think that about does it for under $100 options. Am I forgetting anyone?
Based on the above I think that Ratio or Proper Cloth are the best bang for you dollar. However if the custom sizing and return process are a turn off than it is probably Spier & Mackay. If, you can get one. I have also heard that making returns at Spiers is painful. If the Brooks Brothers alpha sizing works for then it’s not a bad deal in my book. If all the above fails then I might turn to the new J.Crew OCBD.
Haven’t purchased any the past few years, but I’ve always bought cheap ones from Lands End. They usually have a couple colors that are must-iron and are neck and sleeve sized. Not great but are serviceable.
Johnny, thanks for chiming in! When I looked I only saw cotton/poly mixes or the Sail Rigger which still looks to have a very short collar. Still a good entry level OCBD though.
I got two of the Hyde Park shirts last June for 50% off, so $12 each 🙂 They don’t seem to carry them anymore, after having them for 20+ years. Should have stocked up on them, as they were the best bang for the buck OCBD.
Luxire is worth a shout out too – quick turn around, solid quality, and a crazy amount of customization.
Good catch! I dont know why I always seem to forget about Luxire. I need to try one of these soon.
I love my Charles Tyrwhitt OCBDs. Wait for a “4 for $200” sale, and you’re at $50 per shirt.
I gotta say, I’m a big fan of the Sail Riggers. They are a pretty good value, especially with the eternal sales that Land’s End seems to be running. I wouldn’t wear them with a tie, however as a casual everyday shirt they are great. As a new dad, I think I most appreciate that they don’t feel too precious – they can take some wear and tear (read: stains) from the kiddo 🙂
This summer I also picked up a J Crew ‘relaxed fit’ OCBD on sale. It’s a nice summer weight, and in a beautiful shade of green. Like the Sail Rigger, I consider it a casual option – hard to imagine wearing a tie with it.
If you want a new OCBD shirt for a reasonable price, there’s a guy on Ebay offering new factory seconds BB shirts for well under a hundred. The shirts have slight (you can’t see them from more than about 8 inches away) mill errors. Otherwise, they are perfect. I’ve got a half dozen of them.
Steve is the man! I posted about his ebay store that long ago. I probably should have included him in this post.
Do you happen to have a link to his store? Thank you!
Chip, you can find the link in this post: https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2023/06/a-couple-of-leads/
I have a couple of the spier slim fit ocbds. VERY slim and the arms shrank just a bit too much. I liked them otherwise. Love the collar roll.
I ordered a few J Press classic fits, but found them to be way too big. I am trying to find something between the very traditional J press classic fit and the super trim spier fit.
I am going to NYC in October and am going to stop at a J Press, maybe I’ll try a bunch on there and see if i like any of them. I may also order some contemporary fit spier ocbds.
Lands end sail rigger, though only available in blue, white and LE’s trademark weird stripe patterns, is wonderful if you fit into their alpha sizing. Beefy 100% cotton, 3″ collar (unlined I believe, and same length as kamakura), side gussets, locker loop and rear collar button. $40 on their perpetual sale. Length isn’t super long but stays tucked and looks good with shorts.
Great post as always. Yes, there are still all cotton, must iron ocbd Lands End Sail Rigger shirts, but they don’t have a lot of options, and it seems they are really pushing wide vertical stripe blocks. I do wear these shirts with ties but wish the collar points were longer and more relaxed.
Also, with a little patience, eBay (as well as Etsy) currently has many vintage 1980s-90s (made in USA) brooks ocbd, broadcloth, and brookscloth shirts in many sizes and colors. The older ones come and go faster but if one wants Brooks Brothers silver age (or golden age, depending on your perspective) shirts, a little searching will yield many examples at low prices in great condition.
Hey Jerrod, have you ever had a bespoke OCBD shirt before?
If so what would the details be?
Thanks
I have never went bespoke but have made a custom shirt with Proper Cloth before. I don’t think that I’d do anything crazy. I think my ideal collar length is 3.25″ which is shorter than others, but I am shorter than others. I would probably also do a flap pocket especially if it is broadcloth because I like the high/low contrast, a locker loop, and I think that about does it.
Add a vote for Polo RL oxfords. They don’t have cred in Trad forums because of the collar and lack of pocket (maybe b/c of the logo). However, I find them to be of good quality and very consistent. The latter is tough these days sub $100. They are frequently on sale or can be found on eBay.