All posts in Clothing and History

Measurements of Brooks Brothers OCBDs over the Years

Ivy Style enthusiast Farrago has put together a great post over at Talk Ivy providing measurements of Brooks Brothers OCBDs ranging from the 1960s up to the recently updated 2016 OCBD. These are the types of posts that keep forums going. He was kind enough to allow me to repost this great information over here.

As promised, I got around to combing through the museum. I took measurements on the collars, chest, and length (back and front). I weighed the shirts as well. Apologies for my usual poor photos.
1960 Brooks Brothers OCBD

1960’s Brooks Brothers White OCBD

No pocket. Purple label without care instructions. 6 button front . Gussets on the sides. Note the collar length of this shirt.
Collar: 3 ”
Weight: 10.51 oz.
Chest: 24 1/4″
Front: 30 ”
Back: 32 ”
1970 Brooks Brothers OCBD

1970’s Brooks Brothers Yellow OCBD

Pocket. Red label without care instructions. 6 button front.
Collar: 3 7/16″
Weight: 12.28 oz.
Chest: 25 1/4″
Front: 28 1/4 ”
Back: 31 1/2 ”
1980 Brooks Brothers OCBD

Late 1980’s Brooks Brothers Blue Blazer Stripe OCBD

7 button front.
Collar: 3 3/8″
Weight: 11.96 oz.
Chest: 25 ”
Front: 30 1/2 ”
Back: 31 1/2 ”
Early 1990s Brooks Brothers OCBD

Early 1990’s Brooks Brothers Yellow w/ Blue Track Stripe OCBD

7 button front.
Collar: 3 1/4″
Weight: 11.22 oz.
Chest: 24 3/4 ”
Front: 28 3/4 ”
Back: 30  ”

Mid 1990s Brooks Brothers OCBD

Mid 1990’s Brooks Brothers Ecru OCBD

7 button front.
Collar: 3 3/8″
Weight: 12.10 oz.
Chest: 24 1/4 ”
Front: 28 1/4 ”
Back: 30 1/2  ”
2008 Brooks Brothers OCBD

2008 Brooks Brothers Pink OCBD

7 button front. Lined. Note the weight.
Collar: 3 3/8″
Weight: 13.76 oz.
Chest: 24 1/2 ”
Front: 29 1/2 ”
Back: 31 1/4  ”

2016 Brooks Brothers OCBD

2016 Brooks Brothers Helio Stripe OCBD

7 button front. Gussets. No pocket. The Madison cut is the nearest to the now discontinued Traditional cut.
Collar: 3 7/16″
Weight: 12.14 oz.
Chest: 23 1/2 ”
Front: 28  ”
Back: 30 1/4  “

The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Wallabee Clarks

This post may cause many Ivy League Style enthusiasts to cringe as it contains talk of sneakers, puffy down vests, and other items (like the Clark Wallabees above) that either never existed during the heyday or were not part of the look. Quite a few of these items are have been incorporated into the Trad look which includes elements of Ivy League style as well as Prep.

FNB commentator (The Talk Ivy Forum), and my internet pal Stanshall (this man has a mind like a steel trap!) just recently put together an extensive list (,dare I say definitive?) of late 70s Prep items. I think that this list along with a few images from the Heavy Tweed Jacket archive does a great job of illustrating how Prep bridges together Ivy League Style and Trad. Feast on the wealth of knowledge dropped by Stanshall below.

The Definitive Late 70s Prep Checklist

L. L. Bean, Orvis, Eddie Bauer, Lands’ End, Gokeys, Talbot’s –

Down vests
Norwegian sweaters
L. L. Bean chamois shirts
Gray marled ragg sweaters
Sperry Top-Siders
Blucher mocs
Camp mocs
Levi’s straight cords
Khaki chinos, washed-out
Wide-wale cords, washed heavily, on the short side
Brooks Brothers ocbds
Brooks Brothers fun shirts in multicolored stripes
Cords-Shetland-Wallabees
Bean mountain anoraks
60/40 parkas in various colors
Tretorn Nylites
Jack Purcells
Sperry canvas deck sneakers
Adidas Country, Stan Smith, Rod Laver
Boast or Lacoste longtail polo shirts, occasionally Fred Perry which was carried at the Co-Op
Nike white canvas tennis sneakers with toe bumper
Timberland boots

Late 70s PrepShetland crewneck sweaters including Shaggy Dogs and extra points for patchwork Shaggy Dog in various shades of blue
Bean brown canvas duffel bags
Ray-Ban aviators
Vuarnet skiing sunglasses (Lynx models)
Sweatshirts: crew; hoodie pullover; zip hoodies
Early fleece jackets, pre-Patagonia, e.g. Chuck Roast from New Hampshire
Brooks lambswool or cashmere v-neck sweaters
Custom printed t-shirts commemorating regatta, tournament, ski weekend, drinking championship, etc.
Bean ranger oxford
T-shirts and sweats from other schools you’ve played or visited or have a girlfriend at

Rugged Ivy WallabeeAn example of the late 70s Prep influence

Brooksflannel viyella shirts in tattersalls
Bean Woodsman’s pants of heavy gray wool with faint large red overcheck
Bean boots and Maine Hunting Shoes, lace-ups, pull-on loungers, and buckled models too
NY Yankees caps
Foot-Joy squash shoes in white mesh with gray suede and tan rubber soles, low-cut or extra-preppy high-top
Squash racquets
Volvos and Saabs
Clarks Wallabees
Rugby shirts from the socce*r locker or serious sporting goods shop not the mall
Icelandic sweater from Antartex Shop

Rugged IvyAnother example of the late 70s Prep influence

Bean corduroy weekend jacket (G9-style)
Bean sheepskin driver’s seat cover for the car
Bean “Peruvian”-type knit ski hat
Bean field watch, regular strap it came with
One blue blazer left over from high school, never to be worn, lives at bottom of pile of clothes in dorm closet and cannot be unrumpled
One tweed sport coat, either hand-me-down, thrift or from a proper shop
Couple of rumpled repp ties
Ragg socks only on coldest days
Good-quality old-school hiking boots
Straw hat from islands worn with tan first week after spring break
Walk shorts in September, April and May

As you can see not every Prep item on the list made into the Trad canon. This is similar to how Prep kept some of the Ivy League staples such 3/2 roll jackets, penny loafers, and chinos, but left out items like buckle back pants and added their own touches like Rod Lavers. There are definitely items on the list that I find cooler than others, but that is pretty standard. I am particular. Then there are items like wallabees and my trusty green down vest that I owe to the late 70s Preps. I am sure that many of you can find a few items of your own named on the list.

The Myth of the Bass Weejun

Myth of the Weejun

It is no secret that I am a big fan of the Bass Weejun. Even when I try to step up my footwear game I end up coming right back to the it (All About that Bass). That is why when I read Arnie’s comment about the myth of the Weejun over at Ivy Style (See the article here) I thought that it deserved to be highlighted.

In this comment Arnie explains how the Weejun that we all think of as a very casual shoe was derived from the shoe that Norwegians would wear to formal events. When I was re-reading this comment it reminded me of the ‘Plausible History of the 3/2 Roll‘ post and how the true origin of things are often altered by time…and marketing. I am not sure if this version of the Weejun story is true, but it is certainly worth thinking about.

Arnie | October 23, 2015 at 2:30 am |

The myth around the Norwegian origin of weejuns deserves a comment. Here in Norway similar looking shoes called “Aurland sko” have never been used by so called poor peasants. On the contrary – the Aurland shoe is used by Norwegians when we wear our national costume “bunad” (a very formal dress that can replace white tie ensemble e.g. at royal banquets and other events that call for formal wear). But when Americans discovered the shoe in Norway back in the early midst of last century they modified it by removing the silver buckle and created what is known as the loafer or penny loafer. As in so many cases we should be thankful for American modification and invention. But in Norway, the traditional loafer with a silver or metal buckle, was an expensive shoe back in the old days. And it is not suitable for wear in a tough, cold and harsh climate. Most people wore boots or sturdy shoes year round in the late 1800’s and early twentieth century. Only the ones with money (and remember that Norway was, together with Ireland, the poorest country in Europe) could afford an Aurland shoe. I had to get this of my chest, or off my foot… That said – the American penny loafer is popular in modern Norway. We owe a grateful thought to the Americans who made them affordable and available in modern, wealthy Norway. CC, keep up the great work on Ivy Style. Greetings from the far northern corner of Europe where we only wear the original weejun at formal occasions, but the penny loafer all other days when we aren’t snowed down!

My Wash ‘n’ Wear Blazer

After what feels like weeks and weeks of cooler than normal temperatures the warm days of summer have returned. While I love the heat it can make wearing a sport coat or blazer a little challenging. This is the time of year where my Brooks Brothers Wash ‘n’ Wear blazer sees a lot of action.
Poplin BlazerFirs off, what is Wash ‘n’ Wear (or Wash and Wear)? Wash ‘n’ Wear fabric is composed of either a poplin, seersucker, or wool blend. While the poly aspect of the fabric seems to fly in the face of the trad ethos it has been included in the canon. The blend has 3 major benefits. It is wears well in warm weather, stays wrinkle free, and it can be machine washed. According to this New York Times (Wash it, Wear, it) article it surfaced around 1953.
Wash and WearWash ‘n’ Wear fabric was primarily used for suits (based on the second-hand market) which has one thing that has always intrigued me about my blazer. The blazer came to me via the second-hand market, but I had always believed it to be a blazer. I believed this because of its blazer like features (gold buttons, two-button cuffs, patch pockets, swelled edges), but it turns out that I was wrong.
Brooks Brothers Wash n Wear BlazerIn an email exchange with the previous owner I learned the true origin of the blazer. It was purchased as part of a suit from Brooks Brothers in the early/mid-1990s. At some point the pants shrunk. The owner then converted it to a blazer by adding gold buttons, because it had all the features including the two button cuffs which were his call. I now know the origin of my blazer, confirmed that trad was alive and well in the 90s, but I did not answer the question that came from a reader which inspired this post, “Is it standard for cotton blazers to have gold buttons?”

From Matunga to Manhattan

The weather has been unseasonably warm here the last few days which led me to jumping the gun on Madras season. While I blame the heat I am not at all upset about this development. It has been gorgeous outside.

A few weeks back a writer from the Daily News and Analysis India approached me about using one of my Madras images (see above) for an upcoming story on the fabric. While they ultimately chose not to use my image I thought that it was an interesting article well worth sharing with all my Madras loving Trads.

There’s apparently nothing in common between Ramasubbu and Brooks Brothers. The former is a street vendor in Matunga Market, Mumbai. The latter, an upmarket men’s clothing brand – the oldest in the US – headquartered in Manhattan. But dig deeper, and you’ll find that they’re inextricably linked by a design so much a part of Indian society that we seldom think twice about it.

Click here for the full read. I am off to enjoy the warm weather.
Golf Madras